Givaudan launches SensoTrue DM5, a sugarcane-based rival to DM5 silicone

Givaudan Active Beauty has launched SensoTrue DM5™, a bio-based emollient engineered as a drop-in alternative to 5 cSt dimethicone (DM5 silicone, the lightweight silicone oil standard in conditioners and leave-ins), and its instrumental numbers beat both DM5 and D5 on every measured parameter.

According to the company's testing, the ingredient delivered 60% less wet combing force, 24% less frizz and 42% less flyaway hair, outperforming 5 cSt dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane D5 (a heavier volatile silicone facing regulatory pressure) across all three metrics.

"SensoTrue DM5™ delivers a significant improvement in hair performance: 60% less wet combing force, 24% less frizz and 42% less flyaway, outperforming both 5 cSt dimethicone and D5 across all three parameters," said Ricky Ho, Senior Category Manager at Givaudan Active Beauty.

How the emollient is built

SensoTrue DM5™ combines white biotechnology (industrial fermentation using microorganisms) with green chemistry. Its feedstocks are renewable sugarcane and upcycled pine terpenes — waste-stream compounds from pine processing repurposed as raw material.

The result is a multi-molecular alkane architecture — chains of saturated hydrocarbons at different molecular weights — paired with complementary polymeric emollients. Givaudan says the complex works on three levels:

• Low molecular weight volatile alkanes mimic cyclopentasiloxane: they spread evenly across the hair fibre, then evaporate cleanly, leaving smooth, uniform coverage without residue.
• Mid molecular weight non-volatile alkanes penetrate the cortex, providing long-lasting hydration and strengthening the hair fibre from within.
• High molecular weight polymeric emollients form a lightweight, flexible film that smooths the cuticle, reduces friction and controls frizz — silicone-like conditioning, the company says, without build-up.

What did consumer testing show?

Self-assessment data from Givaudan backs the instrumental results. Over 85% of women perceived visible efficacy after a single application. After 10 days of use, up to 88% felt their hair was healthier, and up to 92% expressed high satisfaction with a SensoTrue DM5™ routine.

The ingredient is suitable across the professional and mass hair care range: shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, leave-in treatments and styling products. Its profile is odourless, colourless and preservative-free, which Givaudan says allows seamless integration across multiple formulation formats without affecting fragrance or colour cosmetics chemistry.

Why replace silicones now?

Silicones have set the benchmark for softness, shine and smoothness in hair care for decades. That position is eroding under three pressures, according to Givaudan: growing environmental concerns around silicone persistence, evolving regulations — D5 in particular has faced restriction reviews in the EU — and consumer demand for naturally derived ingredients.

The launch targets formulators caught between that regulatory and market pressure and the sensory expectations consumers attach to silicone performance.

"SensoTrue DM5™ demonstrates how biotechnology can open up new possibilities for high-performance, naturally derived hair care ingredients," said Fabrice Lefèvre, Innovation and Marketing Director at Givaudan Active Beauty. "By combining renewable resources, green chemistry and advanced molecular design, we are enabling brands to meet consumer expectations for a premium hair care experience, without compromising on their environmental commitments."

Where can formulators get it?

The ingredient is available through Givaudan Active Beauty's professional channel, with technical documentation hosted on the company's digital ingredient platform, uxbeauty.givaudan.com.

All performance and consumer claims are manufacturer-attributed; Givaudan cites instrumental and consumer studies but has not published the underlying protocols. Brands evaluating a switch from 5 cSt dimethicone will need to benchmark the ingredient in their own bases, particularly in leave-in formats where volatility and film behaviour drive feel.

With SensoTrue DM5™, Givaudan is positioning bio-based chemistry to take share from silicone incumbents in the next generation of high-performance hair care formulations.